People are promoting oral collagen supplements all over the internet for their hair, skin and nail benefits, but do they work, and how do you choose the best ones?
Every day, thousands of influencers promote oral collagen supplements for their beauty benefits, convincing you to buy them to fit a certain wellness aesthetic. However, they are expensive. One month's supply costs roughly 50 USD (600 USD annually). Is it worth the investment? Or would you be better off opting for some Botox or a nice facial?
Thankfully, over the last few years, there's been a lot more research into oral collagen; in fact, two large systematic reviews and meta-analyses about oral collagen came out in 2021 and then again in 2023. So, we have much more data to consider to help answer our questions.
This article answers how collagen supplements work and how to choose the best ones.
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What is Collagen?
Before we discuss oral collagen supplements, I think it's a good idea to learn more about collagen itself. That way, we can make a more informed decision about whether or not to invest in collagen supplements.
Collagen is the main structural protein within our connective tissue. So it's in our skin, bones, cartilage, and even our eyes.
Unfortunately, as we age, our bodies make less collagen and the collagen we already have breaks down. From the age of 20, we start to lose about 1% of the collagen in our skin per year. After menopause, falling oestrogen levels lead to a further reduction in collagen production. So, you are always building collagen within your body and rebuilding it throughout your lifetime. When it comes to collagen in the skin, that breakdown can be expedited by external factors as well, like UV radiation. As these levels drop over time, our skin loses its elasticity, which results in the skin losing its bounce and becoming more susceptible to wrinkle formation.
So, it makes a lot of sense that people would want to hold on to their collagen and increase their ability to make new collagen going forward.
Collagen Supplements
First, it's important to note that oral collagen supplements do not come in the form of full collagen molecules. Collagen molecules are too big for the body to digest easily. Therefore, oral collagen supplements are processed into what is known as hydrolyzed collagen. This process breaks down the large collagen chain into smaller components, such as peptides and amino acids. These smaller components are easier for the body to absorb and benefit from.
Next, I want to point out that currently, there is no such thing as vegan collagen, as all the supplements available in the market are derived from animals. Bovine sources, such as cows, and marine sources, such as fish, are the most commonly used sources for collagen supplements. However, collagen can also be sourced from pigs or chickens. The collagen supplements marketed towards vegans tend to be more "collagen builders" as they contain the nutrients that help make collagen in the skin, like vitamin C.
Finally, our bodies naturally produce collagen if we give them the building blocks to do so, like sufficient amino acids from protein-rich foods and vitamin C. We don't necessarily need to eat the collagen.
How Do Collagen Supplements Supposedly Work?
The concept that oral collagen supplements, when consumed, can be deposited into the skin, replace the collagen that’s in the skin and cause any type of positive effect is somewhat flawed. Remember, I said collagen is a very big molecule, so it would be hard for it to get to the skin as it is.
And when we eat proteins, they are digested and broken down into individual amino acids, which are absorbed into the bloodstream to be used wherever the body needs them; we can’t instruct them to go to the skin.
Studies have shown that these collagen peptides are present in the blood of people who have taken collagen supplements, but it’s still unclear if they reach the skin to serve as building blocks for collagen or whether they are simply distributed throughout the body.
Instead, what seems to be happening is when you consume hydrolyzed oral collagen, it essentially acts as a signalling molecule. It wakes up your fibroblasts, which are the collagen-producing cells in your skin and causes them to make more collagen. So it's not the collagen getting deposited there that really gives the positive effect, but rather the fact that collagen acts as a prompt for your body to make new collagen. Now, this hasn’t been rigorously proven, but that is the current working theory as to how these work and why it is so specific to the hydrolysed collagen peptide.
There's also some early data to show that oral collagen can help heal wounds and reduce skin fragility. So it's not just a vanity thing where you want your skin to look better, but you also want your skin to function better.
Collagen Supplements - The Results
Well, these large systematic reviews and analyses that I mentioned at the start look at all of that data and then come up with specific conclusions based on what exists. Overall, the findings suggest that hydrolyzed oral collagen supplementation has positive effects on the skin. Almost every study conducted noticed some type of positive effect, regardless of the collagen supplementation used. So, the research is really promising and based on this, I can completely understand why someone would want to try them.
Study Limitations
However, there are limitations in the current research that we need to keep in mind:
First, the research we have on collagen supplements to date has mostly been completed by supplement companies, so that in itself is something to be very mindful of.
Next, the current data is not standardized. The studies all use different types of collagen peptides, different sources, or different brands. They report on different outcomes, and the duration of use can vary greatly between the studies. Thus, the overall conclusions drawn from this data are not of the highest quality.
In some of the studies, it's also unclear if the improvements in the skin were actually due to collagen. Some of the supplements also included different vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, and hyaluronic acid, which could also have impacted the skin. Taking these supplements will also improve general protein intake, which will in itself improve the skin.
Now, A few randomized, controlled trials show that drinking collagen supplements with high amounts of specific collagen peptides (prolyl-hydroxyproline and hydroxyprolyl-glycine) can improve skin moisture, elasticity, wrinkles, and roughness. However, large, high-quality studies are needed to learn whether commercially available products are helpful and safe to use long-term.
We also don’t know to what extent everyone benefits from these. Is it more mature skin? Does the dose vary by age? Is the liquid capsule gummy or best? We don’t know. There is a lot of variability. I'm neutral. I understand people taking them. They're not complete BS. There is definitely research supporting the idea that they have the potential to work. I wouldn’t push people to take them. I'm on the fence.
How well are these supplements tolerated?
Oral collagen seems to be pretty well tolerated. The biggest side effects reported with oral collagen supplementation are related to the gut, such as stomach pain or diarrhoea. So, if you have a sensitive stomach, you might want to start with a smaller dose and then work your way up to the recommended amount.
Safety/Risks
Collagen supplements are safe for most people. However, they have not been examined in pregnant or breastfeeding women. Therefore, you should talk to your doctor before initiating them in that phase of your life.
My main concern is that nutritional supplements are not subject to the same scrutiny and regulation as prescription drugs. Therefore, when selecting an oral collagen supplement, it is important to choose one that has undergone third-party testing. Look for supplements that are “NSF certified for sport” or "informed sport," for example. This means that an independent group has tested the collagen to ensure that the supplement contains exactly what is stated on the label.
Many dietary supplements have been found to be adulterated with contaminants. Recently, tennis player Simona Halep failed a drug test. They found out that the collagen supplement she was taking contained undisclosed banned substances.
Heavy Metals
Another criticism of oral collagen is that it can be contaminated with heavy metals.
The vast majority of the time, the heavy metals that are detected in collagen supplements are not at a level where they would cause harm to human health, but they're present nonetheless. And that's honestly unavoidable when creating a collagen supplement because they are derived from other animals who have lived in this world. There's always going to be a little bit of heavy metal presence in a collagen supplement, but it should be low or very close to zero. However, where things start to get a little more dodgy is when multiple servings get consumed in a day. So, always abide by the manufacturing recommendations.
Collagen Supplements FAQ
I would be more sceptical of collagen claims for hair and nails because hair and nails are mainly made from keratin, not collagen. There is a lot of anecdotal evidence of people claiming that these supplements have helped their hair and nails grow. However, the results may simply be related to an increase in one's protein intake.
One small 2017 study of 25 people with brittle nails found that taking 2.5 grams of collagen daily for 24 weeks improved brittleness and nail growth. However, this small study had no control group taking a placebo compared to the group receiving collagen supplements.
Currently, no medical evidence supports marketing claims that collagen supplements can improve hair growth, shine, volume, and thickness.
You can, but it won't have the same effect as the collagen supplements.
The amino acids that seem to be particularly beneficial in collagen supplements are:
- Glycine
- Proline
- and hydroxyproline
These are the ones that you want to look out for in terms of improving your skin. However, the concentrations of these are very low in bone broth compared to collagen supplements. Bone broth, if it's something you enjoy, by all means, continue to drink it. However, I believe many wellness accounts overhype the benefits of bone broth. In reality, the nutrients in bone broth vary tremendously; it's going to vary based on the animal, age of the animal, and preparation methods.
Collagen supplements will contain some protein, but it may be as little as 5 grams per serving. If you're struggling to meet your protein requirements, you may be better off taking a protein powder, which will give you 20-30g of protein per serving. Now, I have seen some brands of collagen supplements with up to 20g of protein, so they would be somewhat better.
It's also important to note that collagen does not contain all the essential amino acids. Therefore, if you are looking for a complete protein source, you may need to consider other alternatives. You can read my protein article to learn more about this. It is also crucial to ensure that you are getting enough protein for your skin health.
Yes. However, if possible, try to avoid collagen supplements that contain vitamin C, as this can increase iron absorption.
What To Look Out For In A Collagen Supplement?
- I would choose either bovine or marine collagen. These are the best-tested collagen forms and seem to exert the best benefits.
- Choose a supplement that contains type-1 collagen (as this is what's found in the skin) with dipeptides (such as proline-hydroxyproline or hydroxyproline-glycine), as these appear to show faster clinical results in studies.
- Make sure you consume enough vitamin C and iron in your diet for your body to make collagen.
- Choose a brand that is 3rd party tested
- It has to taste good
- Look for a dose of at least 2.5g of collagen per serving.
Finally, you need to take the collagen supplement for a minimum of 8 weeks, ideally 12, to fully determine whether or not it is having an effect on your skin. During this time I would also avoid making any other significant changes to your diet, lifestyle or skincare regimen. This will allow you to evaluate whether it is the collagen supplement specifically that is having an impact on your skin and not a new moisturiser!
Conclusion
I think we need more studies and larger studies on collagen supplements. The more information we have, the more informed decisions we can make. It's also not just about whether or not we want to take collagen but what specific collagen is best.
If you have ever tried oral collagen supplements, please let me know in the comments what your experience has been. Have you seen any difference in your hair, skin, and nails? If so, is there a particular brand that you like?
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More about the author:
Hi there! My name is Maria, and I am a Registered Dietitian practising in Ireland and Bermuda. I have extensive experience in helping clients improve their health through the power of good nutrition. I hope you enjoyed this article. If you have any questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to contact me. Additionally, if there are nutrition topics or recipes you would like me to make in future posts, please let me know. I would be more than happy to help.
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Your Registered Dietitian
Maria xx
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